PCT Completion Hike – Days 12 to 30

Checking in after completing our first 400-plus miles of our PCT completion hike. We have now been on trail for 30 days and are well more than half done with the entire trail. Our latest adventures took us from Sierra City, where we last left word, to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park. We have lots of stories, have learned a lot of lessons and have posted a lot of pictures on Instagram, too.

Now that we are a month into this, we are starting to see some of the differences between how we used to hike sections and how we are now hiking the remainder of the trail in its entirety. Planning is simplified to some degree. We no longer have to figure out transportation to each trailhead for each segment, for instance. But it’s more complicated in other ways, such as having a viable and successful resupply plan. There are other considerations, too. Being out on trail for an entire month has brought new dynamics to the hike. It’s no longer a mere physical task, though it is still that, for sure. But I’m finding the hike now just as much mental as physical. So, this brings in new dimension, as well. Patti mentioned the other day how she wakes up each morning and at first a thought sweeps over her about how hard this hike is. Soon enough, that fades and the wonder of the day takes over. For me, I find myself thinking about the hugeness of the world around me, and seem to seek a space in it where I make sense of what that means.

We are still decoding our new normal, trying to figure out what works, what doesn’t and how things might work better. We look for efficiencies everyday and we continue to dial in what works best for us. We continue to struggle getting our daily mileage over 15-miles. We have done many days over that figure, just not consistently. In order to match our goal to be done with the hike by September 15, we see each day at least a small part of that probability diminish.

We had a string of equipment breakdowns. Much of our gear is old or just not doing what we need. So, we have spent the last couple of days researching, finding and acquiring new gear as needed. This includes new shoes for both of us, a new pack for Lynn, a new water filtration system, new rain poncho for Patti. These items all either completely gave out on this latest outing, or wore out after normal use. We also needed to call for a replacement tent as the brand-new one we used only for 40 days or so, started breaking at the poles and screen. It was very stressful while on trail seeing each of these items break over a period of just a few days. Still more than 70 miles out from any stopping point, we could do nothing but rely on duct tape and employ a world of patience until we could take care of these problems once off trail.

Another major issue we are working to resolve is our weight loss. Patti has lost 8-pounds and I have lost 14. According to a calorie-burn calculator I found online Patti and I are likely burning around 5000 calories per day of hiking, well more than we can take in. So, we are constantly fighting weight loss and keeping up our energy. To this end, we are looking for better and more calorie-filled foods along with rich proteins. As an example, Cliff Bar Protein Builder bars carry 400-plus calories. Compared to the Nature Valley brand bars we were using, we more than doubled the calorie counts for our breakfasts by making this one change alone.

As we headed south on the trail, we saw and met many of this year’s thru-hikers. At first, we saw what one hiker described as the “elite” – those that hiked the Sierra Nevada Mountains as they approached it. We also met many people who jumped ahead of the Sierra Nevada and bounced back to the Sierra once the snow had mostly melted. Then, we started seeing hikers who started later in the season, finished the Sierra but did so only after the winter season had all but ended. Either way, Patti and I both hold a lot of respect for thru-hikers, no matter how they do it. It’s a great accomplishment ether way.

About Pace

Patti is 5’1”. I’m 5’11”. We did some testing (we have plenty of time :)) and found that for every 100 strides I make, Patti has to make 140 strides to cover the same distance, a remarkable difference. This has led to a lot of our time on trail spent separately. No matter how I try to modify my pace to match Patti’s, I gain speed over time and end up well ahead of her. If Patti tries to keep pace with me, she wears out and then falls behind, then, too. She does carry more endurance though and can hike beyond my stopping point. We are still working on how to make things work but right now we spend a lot of our time on trail hiking alone.

We will continue updating our progress as we are able. We don’t often have service. But when we do, I’ll update our progress.

As always, thanks for following along. Pictures on Instagram

Lynn Shapiro



Weekly Photo Challenge – Ambience

fullsizeoutput_3e1eThis week’s photo challenge – Ambience – serves me two ways: it gives me a chance to show off a few pictures, and it helps me find a new perspective on our last hike in the Sierra Nevada.Trail Lead ImageWe hear these names, like Devil’s Post Pile, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. Great authors and poets, legends of the wilderness and ground-breaking photographers have walked these very paths. They each infused the forest with mystery and texture that only time has hatched.fullsizeoutput_3e20We would encounter five major passes: first going north from Mammoth, we approached Donohue Pass. Then, coming back south from Mammoth, we first encountered Silver Pass, then Selden and the Muir. And then, finally, Mather Pass – the beast of them all. We knew these names well before our hike. These are often the areas hikers speak about when they speak about hiking, at least those we’ve met. And we have been anxious and excited to finally be in arguably some of the most pristine wilderness still existing in the Continental United States.Version 2The aura of the trail in this section is embracing. It is both quiet and loud. It allows you to wallow quietly in its meditation but then wakes you with a jolt with babbling water or wild birds squawking and chirping all around. This wilderness carries its own ambience sometimes with memorizing effects. It’s no wonder so many before us have enjoyed these miles.img_4886These are hallowed grounds, travelled by thousands of hikers over centuries. When we summited Muir Pass and approached the famous Muir Hut, I could almost feel a pulling bringing me closer. I climbed the few steps into the hut. It was cold and dark. The air was thin and smelled like wet clay. There were a few other hikers there already, all sitting along the stone bench outlining the diameter of the hut, excepting the sealed off fireplace. I put my palm against the stone wall. It seemed to vibrate like a purr. I sat on the bumpy stone bench. I could feel the cold stone chilling me.img_3274

img_3273We look forward to our next trip in June. We’ll be taking off from our last northern most trailhead at Tuolumne. We will be meeting up our our daughter who will be attempting a thru-hike with the class of 2017. I think we keep this blog up because we enjoy sharing the spectacular experience of hiking the PCT. To be able to share this together with our daughter will be a thrill.

Devil’s Post Pile (DPP) to Tuolumne Meadows, DDP to Taboose Pass – Part 2: Connections

“When one tugs at a single thing of nature,
he finds it attached to the rest of the world.”

                                                                                                      – John Muir


Usually when we hike, we don’t run into more than a handful of people. Many times we are nearly all alone. We like that, to be honest. But on our Tuolumne to Taboose hike, we ran into a lot of people. This segment of the PCT shares roughly 210 miles with the John Muir Trail (JMT). The JMT is popular and visited by thousands of people per year. This, for us, was a unique experience in a social component kind of way.

The hikers this year were not as chatty as last. Instead of getting into conversations with nearly each person we passed, we would get the polite smile, and a “Have a nice hike.” The age group this year was much older – our age or older for the most part. We also noted hikers weren’t using trail names. In fact, it seemed most hikers eschewed it. So before we found out names, we created our own trail names.

We met Ozzy and Harriet, a couple from Tasmania. He was charming and quirky. She had beautiful blue eyes, was kind and liked conversation. They both had a great sense of humor. Lynn first “met” them while he was beginning the hike up Donahue Pass. They had already settled in at a campsite. She smiled and said hello when he walked by. She was putting on lotion or something and he could smell it from where he was. We ended up finding a camp site nearby as we headed north. The next day we continued walking further apart, sure that we’d never see them again.

We met Deer Hunter, or Wisconsin as Lynn called him. He was a kindly man, our age, with a quick smile. We joked that we left Los Angeles back in the 1980’s because we were hearing gunfire out our back window. Deer Hunter commented the only guns he hears are during deer season.

As we walked north, we also met Old School. Old School was heading south. He was taking a break on a rock at a stream. We nodded at each other. He was reading a book. Must be a day hiker. Who else would be carrying a book? He’s “old school” we thought. We moved on.

An hour or more later, we were passing another stream. Across the water was a huge rock, big enough to sit up on and maybe take a break. We noticed a blue baseball cap on the rock. It had a white snowflake design and red lettering ALTA. I knew I had seen it before on a younger man. Feeling empathy for the owner of a lost hat (mine is somewhere near Silver Lake), we wondered what we should do? Leave it or take it hoping to catch up with the guy. We went ahead and picked it up and put it in Lynn’s side pack pocket. We would ask around if someone lost a hat. Over the next two days, we asked several people we met if they had lost a hat. But by the third day we were pretty convinced that we would never find the owner of the hat we found and gave up asking.

Along the way, we met a slew of southbound hikers. One morning in particular, we finally really met the Tasmanian couple, Ozzy and Harriet (AKA Harvey and Betty). And we came up again with Deer Hunter (AKA Jim). Then, ten minutes after seeing Deer Hunter and Ozzy and Harriet head out from a stream we all stopped at, we saw Old School close behind. We all ended up leapfrogging each other for the next few days. At one point Deer Hunter was taking pictures and said he was photo-journaling his hike with a DSLR camera. Old School was taking pictures too, but with a film camera! Seemed our name Old School fit just right. A book and a film camera. Can’t get much more old-school than that! It was ironic that he was the youngest hiker we met.

At PCT mile 888 or so, we picked up a short side trail and hiked to Lake Edison. It’s a man-made hydro-plant, lake owned by the electric company. From there we picked up a ferry to take us to VVR. We had a resupply box there. We hoped to get a good meal, collect our box and move on. The “ferry” was a little fishing boat which held four people (plus the “captain”). VVR has bigger pontoon boats but both of them were out of commission. As we approached the dock, a guy camping out along the tree line of the river said, as we passed by, that we were more than two hours early.

It was early, and a little cold so we went up to the rocks that were getting sun. Eventually, we saw others had approached the dock below, but didn’t think much of it. But then we thought, hey, why are they are standing in line? We went down pretty quick after that and sure enough, people were lining up for that “ferry” and we lost our place in front. How foolish! By then, the boat had already arrived and took the first four, and now we were fourth and fifth in line for the next rides. We felt the whole day would be spent getting over to the VVR. Lynn especially was annoyed that this was happening. But suddenly, the guy who yelled out earlier that we were early, volunteered to give up his space for Lynn so that “the couple wouldn’t be split up.” We later learned this was Shaun. He was the only PCT hiker we met. He was doing a thru-hike. And he had a trail name from the Appalachian Trail that he completed last year, but he wasn’t really using it. It was “NTN” – No Trail Name. He had to get off the PCT when he ruptured his Achilles tendon. He was placed on blood thinners and had to suspend his PCT thru-hike for three months. He originally was NOBO but after this delay became SOBO and was headed to Wrightwood to finish up.

While at VVR, we also finally formally met Old School. He just landed a job near the same town as Deer Hunter lives. Later at Vermilion Valley Resort, VVR, sitting next to Old School, we commented about his book. You know, when on the trail, if you want a book, get a digital copy. Or xerox the chapter you want. I used to read up on sections we were preparing to do and make a copy of the chapter to carry along. But, he said he now knows every tree on the trail.

Before we even saw that Old School was at VVR, we found Harvey and Betty. She approached us while we were going through our resupply box. She was very motherly and beautiful and even offered to share the cost of one of the hotel 4-bed rooms that they took. They were hoping to find two others to share the cost. But we preferred to stay in our tent and declined. Camping was free there to hikers. Although I had my regrets later as it was really noisy at night with three different parties going on late into the night. At 1 am I was quickly reminded why I don’t like sleeping in campgrounds.

Lunch was served at about 11:30. The menu at the VVR is limited. But the food is really very good. We had offered Shaun a beer for his generosity but at the VVR, your first drink, even if that is a beer, is free. It’s a perfect marketing tool and is very effective. So, instead of the beer, we bought him lunch and we got acquainted. By the time we ordered, Brian came around bumping fists with Shaun. And Brian had someone with him, whose name we didn’t know. He became “Not Brian” when the waitress handed a plate to him and said “Brian” to which he replied, “I’m Not Brian.” We also ended up having dinner with them, and a lot of beers and laughs!


We noticed when we first walked up to the general store to check in that there were two hiker boxes. These were marked “Food” and “Non Food.” Knowing that the hat we found would never be back with its owner, we threw the cap into the Non Food box hoping that it would be used by somebody eventually.

Once we got set up and had eaten, we decided to play a round of cribbage using a board we saw in the store “library.” We took our game to one of the outside picnic tables. A few minutes into our game, Old School approached us. We chatted about his reccent college graduation, his new job, his time he was taking to travel before moving to Wisconsin, and how he will be close to Patti’s home town at the border of Iowa. After a while, this couple, Andrew and Becca, came up to us.

The hat in Andrew’s hand didn’t immediately register with me. But he turned to Old School and said, “You lied. You really don’t like this hat.”

Old School’s eyes got big. “Where’d you get that”

“Found it in the hiker box.”

“There couldn’t possibly be two hats like this?!?” Old School speculated.

It took a few moments for it to sink in with us.”We’ve been carrying it for the last three days looking for its owner! We finally just tossed it into the hiker box.”

So that’s the story of the hat and the happy owner who got it back.

Old School’s name is Tim. Tim and Andrew and Becca are friends. Andrew wasn’t feeling well, so he was going off trail, but Tim and Becca planned on moving on with their hike to Mt. Whitney. Andrew would take their car and meet them when possible at the end of the daily hikes, but eventually meet them and pick them up when they completed Mt. Whitney. The next day, they gave us a ride to the trail head at Bear Creek Trail, which was an alternate route out of VVR to reconnect with the PCT. Because this was not part of the PCT, we didn’t have any GPS and we didn’t have paper maps, either. Tim was quickly ahead of us on Bear Creek. But Becca, unsure of the trail, was a bit behind. Often we would catch up to her and discuss assurances we were on the right trail. There were places when the trail was not so clearly defined. We often feel relief when we see a PCT marker on the trail. Having been lost plenty of times that sign becomes our security. Becca was dubbed Trail Sign, when we saw her ahead we knew we were still on the right trail. At some point she got ahead and out of sight. When we reached the juncture, it just so happened that Tim was finishing up a break there and getting ready to leave when he heard two people talking and saw it was us. He told us Becca was a little worried about us.“Well, you can tell her we made it!” I said cheerfully. I thought it was sweet that she was worried a bit. Tim said they were going to stop at Marie Lake, another six miles away. We hadn’t had lunch and knew we didn’t have another six miles in us. But, still, I thought we would catch up eventually. We made four more miles that day and never did we see either of them again.



Right along PCT mile 855 the trail passes over the San Joaquin River. We wanted to camp near water that night to wash off before bed and found a nice site right over the bridge. There were several groups of hikers/campers in the area, so when we saw some smoke come up through the river valley, we just assumed it was smoke from a campfire, which, by the way, was not allowed this year in the Sierra. But then we realized that was a lot of smoke for a campfire and realized it was smoke from a forest fire. But how far away?

Lynn got to talking to a hiker who was just coming up from the north where we just came from, and said he hadn’t noticed the smoke. But as soon as that was going on a helicopter started circling around the area. It circled some more and then it focused on a small plot of land to the south and slowly and with amazing exactness, the helicopter landed right there in an incredible small patch of open forest. It was a LifeFlight.

The EMT that came out was in full garb. Lynn just assumed they were here about the forest fire, hoping they weren’t kicking us off trail. But instead the EMT was looking around for a woman who hit her SPOT (a satellite-enabled emergency response system) because she broke her wrist. She said she was near a bridge and needed help. The EMT scoured the area, asking each of us groups of hikers, and, then satisfied this wasn’t the place, moved on. But not before the EMT told Lynn that the fire wasn’t a worry and the smoke would dissipate.


One of the last people we met on the trail this trip is a sweetest couple from the Bay area. By this time we found out everyone’s names and gave up on trail names. This couple we leapfrogged a couple of times the last three days. Karine and Oliver, like us, were booted off the trail last year because of the smoke and were back this year, like us, to finish it. It was Oliver who suggested he take a photo of us on our anniversary in front of Wanda Lake. Then they decided to pose “just like us” below. Oliver also reached out to us in an email, which I read when we started working on this post!


Karine and Oliver posing as we did in front of Wanda Lake on our 29th anniversary.

On our last day of the trail, we were on the south side of Mather Pass heading to Taboose. All morning I often thought of Tim. I had wished when we last saw him at the juncture of Bear Creek and PCT/JMT that I knew then we would not see him again. I’m a hugger and certainly would have given a proper hug goodbye. I had just assumed we would keep leap frogging.

In a way, the universe connects dots for us. When we approached the turn-off at PCT mile 810 or so, there was a big rock with a piece of paper on it held down by a small rock. It was a note from Tim.


To top off the story of connections and small worlds: as we discussed in Part 1 of this series, we were lucky enough to meet a woman hiking alone near the top of Taboose Pass right before the rocky and very challenging descent to the trail head below. She offered a ride to us from the trail head into Lone Pine, a fair distance. Her husband and kids would be picking her up. As it turned out, her husband worked for the Law Enforcement Department of the Forest Service and the EMT Lynn met the few nights before looking for the hiker with the broken wrist, in fact, worked under his supervision!

Devil’s Post Pile (DPP) to Tuolumne Meadows, DDP to Taboose Pass – Part 1: The Itinerary & Logistics

8/26/16 – 9/9/16
145 miles total
Northbound & Southbound


“Does The Walker Choose The Path,
Or The Path The Walker?” 
                                      ― Garth Nix, Sabriel

A little more than a year ago, the Rough Fire in Central California raged. We were hiking northbound to Mammoth, but the smoke from the fire, quite a distance from where we were, was so thick we had to go off trail and abort our hike. We exited Taboose Pass, a little-known and infrequently used path off the PCT. A couple of week ago, we picked up from where we left off. But it was a little more complicated than that.

Here is our odd-ball itinerary, in a nutshell, the result of having to get permits:

  • Devil’s Post Pile (Mammoth) north to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park
  • Take bus from Tuolumne back to Mammoth
  • Hike from Mammoth southbound to PCT Mile 888 – Ferry to Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR)
  • Beer Creek Trail out of VVR to PCT mile 810
  • Hike out through Taboose Pass

Logistics were complex. Patti spent a lot of time studying schedules and planning our attack. Because we could not obtain all the needed permits requested, we had to piece-meal our way into compliance. Adding to the challenge was that we wanted to arrive two days earlier than our permits allowed. We were taking a risk to show up early needing to modify our plans. If that were not enough, the permits we needed came from different entities – one from Inyo National Forest, the other from The National Parks System. There were also bus schedules we needed to be aware of – the bus out of Tuolumne, for instance, left at 4:15 PM, which ended up being a big deal, as you will see below. And for the first time we sent a resupply box ahead and we also resupplied in Mammoth.

This was our longest hike, both in miles and days. We wound through beautiful meadows and forests and saw the alpine lakes of the High Sierra. There were a lot of rocks, and that sucked. It was dry and windy, but awesome and with gorgeous views. It’s hard to encapsulate all the unique experiences we had in just a few words. Each day was different. Our hike was truly different than any other we’ve done.


We started off slow – ten miles a day on average. We met up with a lot of other hikers and leap-frogged a handful of them several times. We are pretty sure it was noted by the others that we are the slowest hikers on trail. But we were steady, endured longer and usually ended up catching up by day’s end. Going slower, as frustrated as we may have felt at times, meant less joint aches and sore feet. We were much less concerned with water and carried a lot less than on any other hike.

We drove into Mammoth the night before. We needed to get to the ranger station for the permits as early as possible the next morning. Luckily, were able to easily change our itinerary. The only problem was that we couldn’t get a permit to do the hike in one continuous string: we would instead need to first hike 34 miles north to Tuolumne and then bus back to Mammoth to finish our hike traveling south.There are lockers at the Mammoth Mountain Inn near Devil’s Post Pile to store any food that would otherwise be in our car. We could park there. We went to the resort, parked our car and placed the larger bear vault full of food into a locker, and took the smaller vault with us for the three days we would be out for the Tuolumne segment of our hike. We planned ahead in the event we needed to break up our route. With this plan, we used Mammoth as a resupply spot. We were advised to not keep items with odors in the car. Bears break into cars for the smallest of morsels, even a stick of gum. For $5, the locker was a low-cost insurance policy the car wouldn’t be broken into. After getting everything locked away, we caught the Red Meadows bus at the Inn and rode down to Devil’s Post Pile, about a 15-minute ride. Then, we were off to the PCT trailhead going north.


Despite the late start, we got close to 11 miles in. The trail was relatively easy until the last five miles. We climbed roughly 2000 feet to 9500 feet elevation. The next day wasn’t too bad either. Up approximately another 1000 feet. Towards the end of the day though, we were facing our first big challenge: Donahue Pass. We hiked late into the afternoon but ended two miles short of the peak. Those miles appeared straight up. We “passed on the pass,” and camped below.

The third day, a Monday, we were to exit Yosemite National Park before end of day. We both chuckled throughout the hike about how stupid the trail makes us feel sometimes. We cannot manage math. One of us might start thinking about where we are and start spewing out numbers. Like, well, if we hike for two more hours and we’ve done eight miles today so far, and we go 2.5-miles per hour…that makes it 15 miles and we’ll be there in 20 minutes…” Stuff that isn’t right or make sense.

We constantly misjudge our distances and speeds. Donohue Pass was harder than we figured; the down was steeper and harder than planned. Fortunately the last nine miles were flat. We made great time but it was at the expense of not enjoying the alpine lakes and stunning beauty of that area.


We had plans to get a bus from Tuolumne back to Mammoth. We needed to hustle to make the 4:15 pm departure. As usual, our eye for hiking miles was bigger than our stomach to complete them and we barely made the bus. In a very typical show of hiking unity and camaraderie, a hiker we saw earlier in and who had completed his day, saw us searching around the parking lot for the bus stop and he generously gave us a ride to the stop which ended up being more than a mile away. Without his help, we would have never made it.

After a 90-minute bus ride south, we were back at Mammoth Lodge. We enjoyed a terrific hot meal and a beer at the Yodel Bar & Grill right there. The building with lockers across the street was still opened. We assumed it was open 24/7 but it locks up around 8:30. We were still at our locker picking up our bigger bear vault, cleaning up and prepping for the next few days when the guard came in. He let us stay and finish. Five minutes later, we walked out with the door closing and locking behind us. Thirty minutes later, we were pitching our tent at the Minaret Falls hikers campground. We went right to sleep. The next day would be a big one. We would be beginning our hike south to Taboose Pass.

As section hikers, we have never re-supplied during the hikes, opting instead to carry everything from the start. On this trip, we were able to plan a resupply at Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR). Close to PCT mile 880 there is a trail leading to Edison Lake. There, a hiker can catch a ferry across the lake to VVR. A hiker haven, VVR provides showers and rooms, if you want, but you can also camp for free. There is a small grocery store. They accept resupply boxes for $25 per box for handling. Best of all the restaurant is quite good. We hadn’t planned on staying an entire day, let alone over night. We were, nonetheless, lured into the VVR magic when we readily accepted our host’s invitation to have any first drink of our choice on them – including beer! Once we relaxed with a beer and then ate a great burger (grilled cheese for Patti) for lunch we were sucked into taking our first-ever zero-day.


On the ferry to Vermilion Valley Resort

The following day, we hiked along an alternate route to the PCT, the Bear Creek Trail. This was about 10-miles, four or so more than the ferry back and then directly to the PCT: but it was less strenuous and had more water along the way. We were glad we did, given the great landscape of the river valley.

We climbed Donohue Pass on the way north to Tuolumne. Along our southbound travels, we also climbed Silver, Selden, Muir and Mather Passes, the last of which was incredibly difficult.

Last year, when we were exiting our hike at Taboose, we needed to find a way from the trail head at the bottom of the pass into town at Independence. It’s via a painful 10 mile dirt road out to Highway 395. We lucked out when a researcher we met the day before was able to secure a ride for us through one of his colleagues. This year, similarly challenged, we weren’t sure how we were going to finagle this, but figured out something would work out. As luck would have it, while collecting some water before we trekked down the long and rocky decent of Taboose Pass, we met Laurel, a woman solo-hiker. We asked how she was going to get to town once at the bottom, she said she was getting picked up by her husband at the bottom. “Why,” she asked. “you guys need a ride?”

Details of our hike and stories from the trail to follow in the next post.

Weekly Photo Challenge – Look Up!

Look Up

Our entry into this week’s photo challenge, which is entitled “Look Up” takes us back to this shot taken in March 2015 on our walk from Walker Pass to Hiker Town. The mushrooms went all the way up and all the way round. We had never seen this before.